Fashion expert Jess Cartner-Morley explains the modern hourglass look

The hourglass silhouette, with its defined waist and balanced proportions, is a recurring theme in fashion. However, its latest return comes with a crucial update, says fashion journalist Jess Cartner-Morley. The new way to wear this classic shape is about projecting modern confidence, intentionally moving away from the nostalgic ‘tradwife’ aesthetic that often references 1950s domesticity. The focus shifts from soft, retro femininity to sharp, architectural power.

Key Takeaways

• The modern hourglass is defined by strong tailoring and structure, not costume-like details.
• A key piece is the sharp-shouldered blazer, cinched at the waist with a belt.
• High-waisted, wide-leg trousers can create a similar proportional effect.
• Pairing hourglass shapes with contemporary items like sleek boots or minimalist trainers is vital.
• Solid colours and modern fabrics work better than overtly vintage floral or polka-dot prints.

The conversation around the hourglass shape today is less about recreating a bygone era and more about reclaiming it. The ‘tradwife’ subculture, which has gained visibility on social media, often uses a very literal interpretation of 1950s fashion, including full-skirted dresses and prim accessories, to signal a preference for traditional gender roles. According to Cartner-Morley’s perspective, the contemporary approach to the hourglass figure deliberately sheds these associations. It is not about looking like a homemaker from the past; it is about using tailoring to create a powerful and flattering shape for the present day.

The most effective way to achieve this modern look is with a well-structured blazer. A blazer with defined shoulders, pulled in at the waist with a statement belt, creates an immediate hourglass effect over trousers or a simple dress. This look communicates authority and style. It borrows the silhouette’s core principle, a cinched waist, but frames it with the clean lines of modern workwear.

Another interpretation involves trousers. High-waisted, wide-leg trousers are instrumental in crafting this silhouette without a dress. When paired with a fitted knit top or a tucked-in shirt, they highlight the waist and create a graceful line down to the floor, balancing the upper body. This approach offers the same flattering proportions with an entirely different, more grounded attitude.

The key to keeping the look current lies in the styling. Instead of dainty heels or pearls, the modern hourglass is paired with chunky boots, sleek trainers, or architectural heels. The fabric choice is also important. Opting for block colours in materials like crisp cotton, leather, or substantial wool moves the silhouette firmly into the present. The goal is to separate the shape from its historical baggage, turning it into a tool for self-expression rather than a symbol of conformity.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q1: What is the ‘tradwife’ aesthetic?

A1: The ‘tradwife’ (traditional wife) aesthetic is a style adopted by a subculture of women who promote traditional homemaker roles. The fashion is heavily inspired by the idealized 1950s housewife, often featuring fit-and-flare dresses, aprons, and vintage-style hair and makeup.

Q2: Can I wear an hourglass shape to the office?

A2: Yes, absolutely. A belted blazer over tailored trousers or a pencil skirt is a perfect way to wear the hourglass shape in a professional setting. It looks polished, powerful, and modern.

Q3: What kind of belt works best for creating an hourglass shape?

A3: A medium to wide leather belt is often most effective. It has enough substance to properly cinch the waist of a blazer or coat without getting lost in the fabric. A simple, clean buckle design keeps the look modern.

Q4: Are full skirts completely out of style for a modern look?

A4: Not at all. The key is how you style them. To keep a full skirt looking contemporary, pair it with modern, contrasting pieces like a simple crew-neck T-shirt, a leather jacket, and chunky loafers or boots. Avoid pairing it with overly feminine or retro items like a pussy-bow blouse.